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French sauces add elegance and ease to holiday turkey

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Brillat Savarin, the famous French food writer of the early 19th century, called turkey ''one of the finest gifts that the New World gave the Old.''

Our reply is that the Old World's gift to us is the cooking techniques and sauces its cooks have developed, which we enjoy using for our turkeys.

In both Europe and the United States, roasting is the customary way to prepare turkey both for holidays and for serving year round. But now that families are generally smaller a whole turkey, even a relatively small one, is often just too large.

And since several hours are required to roast a whole turkey, the breast meat tends to dry out if it is not basted often.

The solution to these problems is to plan festive meals around turkey breasts , using an easy formula that is popular in the best of French restaurants.

The briefly cooked, moist meat is accompanied by a smooth, quick-to-prepare sauce and colorful fresh vegetables in season.

Each plate is arranged attractively, with the turkey slices coated with sauce in the center, and the vegetables encircling it.

A variety of cooking methods is suitable for turkey breast slices. Broiling or sauteing is best when serving them with a relatively strong-flavored sauce, such as a mustard or curry sauce. For delicate sauces, poaching or steaming is preferred.

Because turkey breasts are very lean, they are an ideal companion for the modern French sauces, which are rich in cream and butter. Turkey Breasts With Curry Sauce and Broccoli 11/2 pounds turkey breast slices, 1/4- to 1/2-inch thick Salt and pepper to taste 2 tablespoons vegetable oil 2 tablespoons butter 2 medium onions, finely chopped 1 tablespoon curry powder Pinch of salt, to taste 2 cups turkey or chicken stock or broth 1 cup whipping cream 3 bunches broccoli, divided into medium flowerets

Sprinkle turkey slices all over with salt and pepper. Heat oil and butter in large frying pan and add enough slices to make one layer. Saute over medium-high heat about 2 minutes on each side or until just tender when pierced with a sharp knife. Do not overcook, or meat will be dry. Remove meat and saute remaining slices and remove.

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