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CLASSICAL Rimsky-Korsakov, Nicolai: Suites from ''The Tsar Sultan'' and ''The Golden Cockerel.'' Rotterdam Philharmonic, David Zinman, conductor. (Philips Digital 6514 163) - An enchanting release featuring the ever-popular ''Golden Cockerel'' (or ''Le Coq d'Or'') suite along with the marches from ''Tsar Sultan,'' which includes ''The Flight of the Bumblebee.'' Rimsky-Korsakov is a wildly underestimated composer whose operas are utterly out of fashion these days. Yet one listen to either side - but particularly the ''Coq d'Or'' suite - will exhibit the perfumed, exotic nature of his writing, the sumptuous beauty of his orchestration, and the haunting allure of his melodic inspiration. The music is gorgeously recorded - most of the Zinman-Rotterdam disks have been outstanding, but I find this one particularly beguiling musically and sonically.

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