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Oysters and chops for 106 years

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When Gage & Tollner opened its steak and seafood restaurant in Brooklyn in 1879, you took the Fulton Street Ferry from Manhattan to get there. The Brooklyn Bridge was opened four years later in '83. The Statue of Liberty came three years after that.

By 1931, when the Empire State Building was finished, second and third generations of Gage & Tollner regulars were tucking in their starched white dinner napkins for Maine lobster with melted butter, seafood chowders, and clams, steamers, or oysters on the half-shell.

It was no doubt one of the New York seafood restaurants and oyster houses that so impressed Charles Dickens on his visits to the United States. It was unpretentious, but the kind of place where all the notables dined. Leon Gaskill, headwaiter for 61 years, told of serving Lillian Russell, David Warfield, and Henry Ward Beecher.

Now celebrating its l06th year, the restaurant has changed surprisingly little over the years. In continuous operation at the same location, it is the only New York restaurant to receive landmark status both inside and out.

Handsome as the building is with its white-pillared portico and Victorian, gaslight-era atmosphere, it's the food that should be declared a historic landmark.

``The menu has changed very little,'' says Ed Dewey, whose father, Seth Bradford Dewey, bought the restaurant in 1919. He and his wife, Trudy, live in an apartment above the restaurant and spend most of their time there.

Mr. Dewey shares his late father's dedication to preserving the ambiance established by Charles M. Gage and Eugene Tollner. The staff, too, embodies the continuity of generations. Gold insignia on the waiters' jackets indicate that many have worked in the restaurant more than 10 years. A gold eagle stands for 25 years of service, a gold star for 5 years, and a gold bar for 1 year.

``There are certain things that have been fundamental all these years, and we still adhere to them,'' Ed Dewey says. ``We insist on freshness and top quality. All the seafood, meats, vegetables -- everything is cooked to order. Nothing is prepared ahead.

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