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Home-grown mustard packs a lot more zest. Seeds chosen for zip, productivity are available now to home gardeners

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Two of the better-known mustards in this world are Grey Poupon and Coleman's. The former, if you pay much credence to TV advertising, is a glove-compartment feature of every Rolls-Royce, while the latter carried Jeremiah and James Coleman's name to the farthest corners of the British Empire and beyond and made them very rich men in the process. But good as these two mustards are, they don't come close to the home-grown, freshly ground product. That is the opinion (which I now share) of Rob Johnstone, a mustard lover from his youth and founder of Johnny's Selected Seeds on the outskirts of this rural Maine town.

It so happened that Johnstone and I returned on the same plane from a recent seed conference in St. Louis, and he made his mustard claim just as we were being served sandwiches somewhere over Indiana. With an unbecoming impertinence I said that I'd drop by for lunch sometime to test out his theory for myself.

One week later I did just that, and I cannot recall when I agreed with anyone about anything quite so readily. Home-grown mustard is too good a thing to pass up. Moreover, a little mustard goes a long way. You can grow in a few square feet all the mustard your family can eat. So you might bear this in mind when planning next season's garden. For that matter it wouldn't take much land to grow enough mustard to provide for a small cottage industry.

Johnstone did a good deal of traveling looking for the mustards that would add just the right zest to an American meal. He finally tested two varieties that met his criteria -- flavor, zip, and productivity in the back garden. His winners are the yellow-seeded Tilney, which the Coleman family made so famous, and the brown-seeded Burgonde. Tilney is the variety that goes into yellow American hot dog mustards and the much hotter English and German white mustards. Burgonde is the favorite of many French m ustardmakers.

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