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In Transit In Italy

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THE night train from Basel to Rome slid into Milan's Stazione Centrale at 6:45 on a moist morning, ahead of schedule. I had boarded at Chiasso, the Swiss-Italian frontier stop 20 miles north. Later that morning I was to fly to Boston, and I had a few hours to spend before boarding the bus to Malpensa airport.

Over the years I have spent considerable time in Milan's 235-yard-long terminal, with its 22 platforms sprawling along Plazza Duca D'Aosta.

Even at that early hour the stazione jumped with noise, motion, and excitement. Voices spoke in Italian, French, German-Swiss dialects, Yugoslavian, Japanese, English, and Scandinavian tongues. It sounded as if the students at Milan's 21 foreign-language institutes had been dismissed simultaneously.

Other sounds came from electric-powered machines hauling luggage and freight along the marble floor, from canned music, discordant, crackling, and from an amplified female voice chanting train arrivals and departures.

Commuters headed for Como, Stesa, and Locarno mingled with international passengers who would travel to almost all points of the compass.

My eyes worked like a wide-angle camera slowly panning a Hitchcock-like scene: barbershop, tourist office, police sub-station, haberdasher, souvenir booths, post office, a miniscule branch of Banca Commerciale.

A large red neon sign proclaimed that here was the Diorno, the day hotel that could provide the traveler with a sleeping room and shower, a temporary refuge where you could get your suit pressed and dry-cleaned, your face shaved, and your hair cut.

Outwardly, the stazione was total confusion. But if you truly understood Italy, you knew it was a controlled and well-balanced confusion. Everything would fall into place, even a half-day strike.

My baggage handler, a wry-looking, middle-age man, listened to me and said, ``Have a caffe. I'll deposit your luggage and bring you the stubs.''

At the stand-up counter that bisects the two exits, I had a large caffe latte, flavored with cinnamon, and two small smoked parma ham sandwiches. And the price! What a switch. It used to cost just under the equivalent of $2. But with the rate of exchange around 1,500 lire to the dollar, it cost me the equivalent of $7 plus $1 tip.

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