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Here is a recipe from the chapter on Moroccan immigrants in Jeff Smith's new cookbook ``The Frugal Gourmet On Our Immigrant Ancestors.'' He writes: ``This recipe is frequently the specialty of the house at many Moroccan restaurants. After one taste you will understand why. The cumin and salt that is sprinkled on the meat at the table just make this dish!'' 2 tablespoons ground coriander seeds 4 cloves garlic, peeled, crushed 1 1/2 teaspoons ground cumin 1 1/2 teaspoons paprika 2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper 1 teaspoon salt 1/4 cup olive oil or ghee 1 5-pound leg of lamb

GARNISH: 1 tablespoon ground cumin mixed with 1 tablespoon salt

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Combine all ingredients except garnish, and rub on leg of lamb. Let sit 10 minutes at room temperature.

Heat oven to 400 degrees F. For rare lamb, insert a meat thermometer in the thickest part of the leg, being careful not to touch the bone. Place on roasting rack in pan and roast at 400 degrees F. for 40 minutes to brown meat. Reduce heat to 325 degrees F. and roast an additional 40 to 50 minutes, or until thermometer registers 140 degrees F. For medium lamb, cook a bit longer so thermometer registers 145 to 150 degrees F.

Allow to sit a few minutes before slicing. Place cumin and salt garnish in a small dish and let each guest sprinkle a bit over the sliced lamb. Serves 8.

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