IF YOU GO TO CUBA

Tourism is a relatively small and developing business for the Cuban government. Patience and Spanish are basic requisites for museum-hopping. The Museum of the Ministry of the Interior is open between 12 p.m. and 7 p.m. The Humor Museum is open from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Access to Cuba from the United States is limited. Low-cost tour packages are available in Canada, Mexico, and Europe. There are also an increasing number of flights from Caribbean islands for day trips to Castro's isle.

The US trade embargo forbids US citizens to spend money in Cuba. Journalists, academics, government officials, and Cuban-Americans visiting relatives are permitted to spend a limited amount of money. A small percentage of Cuba's visitors are US tourists who skirt the law by traveling through Mexico or Canada. Cuban officials seem happy to assist by stamping a separate piece of paper instead of the US passport.