Forget the lack of rebels roaming villages or how many fewer women now face sexual violence, the best sign that Sierra Leone is moving past its brutal civil war is the fact that a trash truck now plies the streets of Freetown.
Freetown, Sierra Leone
In Freetown recently, I came face to face with something that made me a believer: a trash truck.
A believer in what? That depends on what or whom you credit with the appearance of the trash truck. A newly buoyant national government? A streamlined UN better supporting national needs? Aid? Whatever your preferred church of social service causality, the point is that I was sitting in Freetown's legendary traffic, I saw a trash truck.
A picture of a gleaming white sanitation truck will never make it onto a postcard, but it's possibly the thing most worth writing home about. When I first came here two years ago, Freetown rid itself of trash by collecting it in piles at the end of major (and narrow) streets and burning it. There are still a few major piles to be found at strategic locations, but they’re tended by trucks – and presumably, workers with nifty new jobs – and the trash is taken away.
You may be asking yourself, Is she seriously writing about trash collection? I get that this has the potential to sound a little snotty, as if the recently returned adventure tourist is pleased to see that the natives have finally discovered sanitation. But that would be too cynical a read even for me. And it would be wrong, for reasons that suggest perhaps this whole peacebuilding thing, which I'm here investigating for the Pulitzer Center on Crisis Reporting, has its merits.
Earlier this week, I spoke with Philip Dive, the joint strategy officer at UN country headquarters and, de facto, HQ’s peacebuilding point man. Peacebuilding is a word with as many definitions as people you ask, but Dive's take sticks out: He thinks of peacebuilding as a process of normalization, of taking situations so abnormal they demand attention – 70 percent of youth are illiterate! – and fixing them so that, basically, they don’t. (Ever read a news story headlined, "Seventy percent of youth can read and write!" Me either.)