North Korea, in a sign of a thaw, allowed famliies split by the border to visit each other at a North Korean site in September.
In the demilitarized zone, Korea
The crags of Mt. Kumgang gleam on the horizon, magnets drawing South Koreans to North Korea and the dream of reunification of a divided nation – or at least of reuniting with relatives whose faces remain etched in the memories of old men and women who last saw them amid the tumult of the Korean War.
"We're lucky to have this occasion," says Lee Kyong-hee, a retired editor, after returning from a fleeting three days at the base of Mt. Kumgang, where she met a sister whom she hadn't seen since 1951. Lee is standing beside her 100-year-old mother, who is resting in a wheelchair, recovering from a meeting they fear may be the last. "My mother has suffered so much," she says. "She has been praying every day."
Ms. Lee, who is in her sixties, mingles bitterness with her memories of the 10 hours that her family was able to see their long-lost sister. "It's a humanitarian program," she says, "but it's inhuman and cruel, because we don't know if we can meet again."
Thousands of families split
The fact that the North Koreans selected her sister as one of 100 to meet relatives from the South only deepens the realization that thousands of other families were not so fortunate, she adds. For several hundred thousand elderly South Koreans, the ultimate dream is to see family members from whom they were separated. For most, the dream remains wrapped up in the politics of confrontation between the two Koreas, even though the leaders of each agreed in June 2000 on regular family visits as integral to inter-Korean reconciliation.
Lee's sister was 16 when she vanished in March 1951 after Chinese forces captured Seoul from the Americans, who had taken the capital from the invading North Koreans but then retreated before the Chinese onslaught. Her father, she says, had already fled to escape capture and possible execution, and her mother was struggling to evacuate the family. When the sister disappeared, the family stayed, hoping in vain to find her.