While President Bush traveled to Baghdad Sunday to hail progress, the war is far from over in places like Mosul where US and Iraqi forces still battle insurgents linked to Al Qaeda in Iraq.
"There is still more work to be done," Mr. Bush said after his meeting with Iraqi Prime Minister Nouri al-Maliki. "The war is not over," he said, adding that "it is decisively on its way to being won."
Bush's trip to Baghdad marks the fast-approaching end to his involvement in the war he launched in March 2003 – a war many Iraqis saw as Bush's personal vendetta against Saddam Hussein. Although grateful to the US for toppling Mr. Hussein, many Iraqis view the aftermath with scorn and dismiss the notion that the US came here in the name of democracy or to make the region safer.
That anger was on full display at Bush's press conference with Mr. Maliki. An Iraqi reporter hurled both of his shoes at the president's head – narrowly missing Bush – and shouted, "This is a farewell kiss, dog."
The act is an Arab symbol of contempt, much like when Iraqis hit Hussein's statue with their shoes after the US invasion.
While Bush's visit was intended to mark gains made across Iraq – and there have been plenty over the past year – in the northern Iraqi city of Mosul the forces unleashed by toppling Saddam Hussein are still persistent and apparent.
Roadside bomb attacks still occur almost every day and businesses are just beginning to reopen after US and Iraqi forces wrestled the worst parts of the city from insurgents earlier this year. Some areas of Mosul still look like a war zone.
Mosul, Iraq's second or third largest city, depending on who is counting, has perhaps the most diverse ethnic mix in the country. Believed to have a slight Sunni Arab majority, the city also has a large Kurdish population, significant numbers of Christians, and almost every other minority.