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It's All in a Sandwich

As anyone who craves enchiladas, curries, or sushi knows, food bridges cultures. To appreciate the flavors devised elsewhere is to appreciate in a small way, at least, those who came up with them.

Consider Germans' passion for a Turkish sandwich called doner kebab - an ungainly mass of vegetables, seasonings, and specially roasted beef stuffed into a large triangle of pita bread. The doner has become the lunch of choice in Germany, far surpassing those other imports, American Big Macs and Whoppers.

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Recalling Germany's past troubles in assimilating its Turkish immigrants, the doner's union with the national palate is a diplomatic and social triumph, as well as a gustatory one.