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Chef Paige Keeps Alive Shakers' Refined Cooking

At a New Hampshire museum, he cooks Chicken Loaf, Sage Cakes, and other dishes inspired by his mentorship with the sisters

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NOT every chef swaps recipes with the Shakers. After graduating from the Culinary Institute of America in New York, Jeffrey Paige did just that.

As chef at the Creamery Restaurant in the Shaker's nearly 200-year-old Canterbury (N.H.) village, Mr. Paige did as much listening as swapping when he first arrived.

Eager to learn about their wholesome cookery, he spent hundreds of hours with the community's four remaining sisters, peppering them with questions on topics ranging from their reliance on herbs to their innovative use of wood-fired brick ovens.

The Canterbury sisters, who have since passed away, welcomed Paige's curiosity and took him under their care. It provided them a welcome break from incessant inquiries about the Shaker rule of celibacy - a favorite topic among tourists at the museum here.

Legacy preserved

Today, Paige cooks Shaker-inspired dishes such as Roast Spring Chicken with Tarragon Butter and Corn and Smoked-Cheddar-Cheese Pudding to guests who visit the community each year.

Since his cookbook ``The Shaker Kitchen: Over 100 Recipes from Canterbury Shaker Village'' (Clarkson Potter, $22) was published earlier this year, business is better than ever, Paige said in a recent interview. Sitting at one of the 16-seat harvest tables in the dining room where he serves visitors, the chef recalls his precious cooking lessons.

During the four years he was mentored by Shakers, Paige learned how to create such dishes as Eldress Bertha Lindsay's unique rose-water apple pie, how to make the most of seasonal ingredients, and how to dry fruits.

But most significant to Paige was the discovery that Shaker cooking rested on an attitude toward food and its preparation that merged grace, flavor, Godliness, good sense, and taste as one.

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